The jewel in the Flinders Ranges crown is undoubtedly Wilpena Pound.
With its quartzite ramparts, tree-lined gorges and abundant flora and fauna, the Pound is extremely popular with hikers.
Happily, most Wilpena Pound walks start from the trailhead adjacent to the visitor centre and there is something to suit every preference and ability.
Can’t be bothered reading the next 4,000 words?
The best walks in and around Wilpena Pound Hills Homestead Walk – a short walk that is perfect for those with limited time and who want a quick and easy Wilpena Pound experience. St. Mary Peak Hike – the best hike for those who want a scale a mountain, see it all beneath them and then brag to their friends. Arkaroo Rock Hike – a brilliant hike that packs a lot of punch over its 3 kilometre length. If you love plants, animals, views and Aboriginal rock art then you must do Arkaroo Rock. Boom and Bust Walk – another short walk perfect for families with young kids who won’t last too long on the trail. Hills Homestead + Wangarra Lookout Hike – for families with older kids and for parents who still have some juice in the legs. This combo allows you to walk inside the Pound, appreciate its immensity from two vantage points and learn a bit about its history. For those who want to read on, grab a cuppa and let’s begin.
Hills Homestead Walk Undoubtedly the most popular Wilpena Pound walk is the one to Hills Homestead.
The walk is mostly flat for the first 2 kilometres or so as the trail follows Wilpena Creek toward one of only two natural entrances into the Pound.
The trail here is shady and peaceful, even though you’ll routinely bump into people returning from the homestead.
Look out for variegated fairy-wrens and red-capped robins in the undergrowth, as well as pesky goats crying out on impossibly steep and rocky slopes above.
Later, the trail crosses over Wilpena Creek which is usually running. But don’t worry, it is only a trickle and you won’t need waterproof hiking shoes to cross. Just use the stepping stones!
Shortly thereafter is a beautiful, reed-lined lagoon where you can stop for a quick snack and appreciate nature at the same time.
Eventually, the trail reaches the turn-around point for the shuttle bus and narrows.
You have two options at this point.
Hills Homestead via Sliding Rock The first (and in my opinion, best) route is to keep right by following a narrow trail on a ledge between Sliding Rock and Wilpena Creek.
Sliding Rock is a large, exposed slab of quartzite titled at an angle and is interesting to look at the first few times you see it.
Look for reptiles such as lizards and skinks basking on the rocks at its base and listen to the creek burbling away below you.
A few hundred metres down the trail you’ll cross Wilpena Creek once more on an elevated boardwalk before ascending a small set of stairs with a convenient bench at the top.
This is an ideal place to linger for a few moments.
Hills Homestead via the top fire track If you’d prefer a bit more sun, head left up the hill from the shuttle bus turn-around point.
There are nice views of the peaks of Wilpena Pound once you crest the hill, but not much else of interest. It’s also going to be a much hotter and more exposed walk on a warm day, so keep this in mind.
When two become one After 1.5 kilometres or so, the Sliding Rock route and top fire track route meet up just before a large wooden bridge over the creek.
Walk across the bridge and then through a magnificent stand of river red gum (Eucalyptus camaldulensis) – one of the best such stands in Australia in my humble opinion.
The stand of river red gums inside Wilpena Pound near Hills Homestead. Look out for the remnants of the Hill family’s old orchard who were pioneers in the area.
You can still see an apple tree and a fig tree amongst the native species, presumably persisting on rainfall alone and only given away by their deciduous leaves.
Eventually, the homestead itself will come into view and information boards will appear about the family and their pioneering history.
While you can’t actually go inside Hills Homestead, the signs do an excellent job of telling their story.
Return the way you came, and if you so desire, take the alternative route back once the trail splits in two near the bridge.
Hills Homestead Walk Difficulty – easy.
Time and distance – 2 hours, 6.6 km return.
Elevation gain – 56 m.
Terrain – mostly flat with occasional undulations and one small, stone staircase.
Trailhead – Wilpena Pound Resort (behind the IGA).
Facilities – occasional rest benches on the trail. Toilets and picnic tables are also provided once you reach the homestead.
Points of interest – Hills Homestead, Wangarra Lookout, Wilpena Creek, Pound Gap, native plants and animals.
Wangarra Lookout Hike The Wangarra Lookout Hike is a continuation of the Hills Homestead Walk and is actually comprised of two lookouts.
The lower lookout The lower lookout is about 300 metres walk up the hill behind the homestead.
It is a moderately strenuous walk, but the value for money is top-notch when one considers the views.
The viewpoint looks out across the inside of Wilpena Pound and, short of a much harder summit hike, is the best way to appreciate the Pound’s immense size.
There is also very handy bench seating here in case you need a breather.
The upper lookout Another 300-metre walk up the hill is the upper lookout. The views here are pretty much the same, but better because you’ve gained elevation.
Wangarra Lookout Hike Difficulty – easy/moderate.
Time and distance – 3 hours, 7.2 km return (lower lookout) or 3.5 hours, 7.8 km return (upper lookout).
Elevation gain – 227 m (to top lookout).
Terrain – rocky with moderately steep sections.
Trailhead – Wilpena Pound Resort (behind the IGA).
Facilities – toilets and picnic tables at Hills Homestead. Bench seats at both lookouts.
Points of interest – the vast semi-forested plain that covers the inside of Wilpena Pound. You can also identify most of the Pound’s summits from the top lookout.
St. Mary Peak Hike St. Mary Peak is a favourite of many, a test of endurance, and not for the faint of heart.
The walk takes you to the top of St. Mary Peak, which at 1188 metres above sea level is the highest point in the Flinders Ranges. It is also the most prominent peak in South Australia.
As you might expect, there are commanding views of the surrounding area from the top.
There is nothing quite like it, in fact.
To the west are superb views of the Elder and Chace Range, and it is also fascinating to observe the way each mountain around the Pound slopes gently on one side but drops off abruptly on the other.
To the west are the shimmering salt pans that cover much of the outback of South Australia, while to the north, the various mountain chains of the Flinders are laid bare and before eventually disappearing into the haze.
The topography on display here is amazing if you’re into that sort of thing.
The view across Wilpena Pound from near Tanderra Saddle. What is the St. Mary Peak hike like? No matter which way you slice it, hiking to the summit will test your resolve and stamina.
Here are your options.
Direct route The direct route starts from the Wilpena Pound Resort trailhead, and because this is a hard and somewhat risky hike, I would advise you to leave your details in the log book.
Walk along the fire track (Hills Homestead Walk) for a few hundred metres before making a right at the shelter and information sign. This turn can be easy to miss, especially if you’re admiring the view in the opposite direction.
Thereafter, the walk parallels the eastern escarpment of Wilpena Pound and is so sedate that it may lull you into a false sense of security.
After a couple of kilometres of easy walking, however, the trail heads up at a rate of knows (relentlessly so at times).
You may even start to doubt that you can make the summit as it takes longer and longer to pass the route markers spaced every 200 metres.
Short, rocky, and steep sections become the order of the day for a while. Luckily there is a well-placed ledge every now and then where you can sit or lay down on a flat rock while you catch your breath.
Tanderra Saddle An hour or so later you’ll reach the main ridgeline and will start to get a taste of the views that await.
Located on this ridge is Tanderra Saddle, the point at which the Adnyamathanha people would prefer you stop and turn around. This is because the summit of St. Mary Peak is central to their creation story.
Whether or not you continue is entirely up to you, but Tanderra Saddle is a superb excuse to crack open the trail mix or killer pythons.
The views both east and west are amazing, and you may even spot a yellow-rocked rock wallaby darting around on the ledges below you.
Continuing to the summit For those that do continue, the trail is somewhat flat for a time before veering to the left to approach St. Mary Peak from behind.
Most of the hard work is done by this point, but there are a couple of places near the summit where you’ll be forced to squeeze between a rock and a hard place or perform some mild acrobatics.
Once at the top, take in the view and give yourself a well-earned pat on the back.
Tip: do not start this walk after 9 or 10 am at the latest – particularly in winter (with short days) or if you’re fitness levels are not quite what they used to be.
St. Mary Peak Hike (direct route) Difficulty – hard.
Time and distance – 6 hours, 14.6 km return.
Elevation gain – 645 m (St. Mary Peak summit) or 400 m (Tanderra Saddle).
Terrain – flat, mildly undulating paths with creek crossings initially. But higher up, the trail contains loose rocks, very steep sections, and minor scrambles.
Trailhead – Wilpena Pound Resort (behind the IGA).
Facilities – none.
Accessibility – closed over December, January, and February.
Points of interest – Wilpena Pound, Tanderra Saddle, St Mary Peak, Elder Range, Chace Range, ABC Range, Aroona Valley, high elevation flora, yellow-footed rock wallabies.
Loop route The loop route is a much longer hike that should only be undertaken by those with a good level of fitness.
Once you’ve made the summit, return the way you came and then turn right at the T-junction near Tanderra Saddle.
From there you’ll very gradually descend into the middle of Wilpena Pound before a long, flat walk back to Hills Homestead. Thereafter, simply follow the Hills Homestead walk to the visitor centre.
The alternative is that you do the loop in the opposite direction, but I don’t recommend it.
The descent back down the western escarpment of the Pound is very steep and bad for one’s knees. Loose rocks may also be an issue.
St. Mary Peak Hike (loop route) Difficulty – strenuous.
Time and distance – 9 hours, 21.5 km return.
Terrain – as above when ascending to Tanderra Saddle or the summit. On the gradual descent into the Pound, the trail becomes loose and rocky before flattening out. The inside trail remains mostly flat with occasional creek crossings and loose rocks.
Trailhead – Wilpena Pound Resort (behind the IGA).
Facilities – toilets and picnic tables at Hills Homestead. None elsewhere.
Points of interest – as above, but with the chance to experience the vastness of the Pound interior and incorporate the Hills Homestead Walk.
Mount Ohlssen Bagge Hike The Mount Ohlssen Bagge Hike is a great alternative to St. Mary Peak as it offers 90% of the views for about 60% of the effort .
Start from the resort trailhead and then follow the Hills Homestead Walk for around 800 metres before turning left.
The trail for Mount Ohlssen Bagge is also poorly sign-posted. Look for the small, colourful trail markers that pop up every 200 metres and then follow directions to Mount Ohlssen Bagge/Boom and Bust Hike.
Unlike the St. Mary Peak hike which is introduced by 2 kilometres of easy flat walking, Mount Ohlssen Bagge is pretty much straight up after you make the left turn at cross Wilpena Creek.
The good news is that the ascent is not too steep and there are small level sections where you can pause for a breather.
The entire climb is also over relatively quickly. Indeed, it’s only 2.7 kilometres from the turn-off to the summit, and over this short distance, you can expect to ascend around 400 metres.
The ascent is very exposed and there isn’t a lot of shade, so please wear a hat!
This trail can get busy at certain times of year, so early or late in the day is best if you want the summit to yourself. But the views from the top are spectacular and to be honest, it would be hard to have an unpleasant experience.
Mount Ohlssen Bagge Hike Difficulty – hard.
Time and distance – 4 hours, 5.6 km return.
Elevation gain – 435 m.
Terrain – rocky and undulating with some minor rock scrambles and steep sections. May be loose underfoot in parts.
Trailhead – Wilpena Pound Resort (behind the IGA).
Facilities – none.
Points of interest – Rawnsley Bluff, Wilpena Pound, St Mary Peak, Old Wilpena Station.
Malloga Falls Hike Malloga Falls is the longest Wilpena Pound hike on this list and should only be attempted by experienced walkers.
The trail follows the Hills Homestead Walk via Pound Gap and then continues across the flat interior of Wilpena Pound to the remote north-western extremity of Edeowie Gorge.
Aside from Pound Gap, Edeowie Gorge is the only other natural entrance into Wilpena Pound worth mentioning.
Some may find the walk just to get to the falls to be tiresome.
Indeed, from Hills Homestead, you still need to walk a further 8.5 kilometres or so and there isn’t a lot of diversity in the landscape.
Mind the junction Eventually, you’ll pass the junction for the St. Mary Peak trail and start to gain elevation on a sandy track that winds its way to Edeowie Gorge.
Here, the shrubs start to close in on you and the trail takes on a different feel.
Soon you will reach Malloga Falls, comprised of two separate waterfalls that only flow after rain. But they (and they gorge they inhabit) are well worth a visit at any time of year.
You can scramble your way to the base of the first falls quite easily, but even experienced hikers have fallen and hurt themselves here. Please be careful!
Continue further and you’ll soon find yourself at the top of the second falls. If you want to access the base of these, you’ll have to climb back to the top of the first falls and take a different route down.
Edeowie Gorge is a stunningly peaceful part of the Flinders Ranges National Park where few people venture. It’s a great place to listen to the wind rustle through the trees as birds and dragonflies dart about.
Sometimes, and from certain angles, Edeowie Gorge reminds me of Alligator Gorge – but on steroids.
Glenora and Kanalla Falls In theory, one can continue to walk Edeowie Gorge for quite some distance. The deeper you go, the higher the walls and the more peaceful it becomes.
The next waterfall is Glenora Falls, which drops into a huge stone amphitheatre where one wrong step could be your last.
Around a kilometre or so further along is Kanalla Falls. Here, you can opt for a similarly sketchy traverse or follow the painted arrows down to the base.
There are great views at the top of these falls as the gorge snakes its way through quartzite cliffs.
At some point – and in typical Flinders Ranges fashion – the gorge quickly peters out to nothing but a creek bed as it snakes its way across the flat, featureless plains to the west.
Safety Glenora and Kanalla Falls (and to a lesser extent Malloga Falls) are not for casual walkers or those with a fear of heights.
There are numerous points where you’ll need to scramble or traverse rocks where, as noted earlier, people have badly injured themselves.
The 23-kilometre round trip to Malloga Falls will satiate most people and is well worth a visit in its own right. Plan to leave early, and only continue down the gorge if you are confident you can get back out.
Tip: if you don’t want to leave from the national park trailhead, you can also pay to access the gorge from the other side at Edeowie Station.
Malloga Falls Hike Difficulty – hard.
Time and distance – 9 hours, 23.2 km return (to Malloga Falls only).
Elevation gain – 301 m.
Terrain – mostly flat and rocky in the Pound interior with occasional creek crossings. In the vicinity of Malloga Falls, the track narrows and becomes sandy with an almost imperceptible elevation gain.
Trailhead – Wilpena Pound Resort (behind the IGA).
Facilities – none.
Accessibility – closed in December, January, and February.
Points of interest – Malloga Falls, Edeowie Gorge, Wilpena Pound interior.
Wilpena Solar Station Walk The Wilpena Solar Station walk is a short, flat, out-and-back walk to the solar panel array that powers Wilpena Pound Resort.
Look, this walk is never going to knock anyone’s socks off. But it’s something you should do at least once.
Before the renewable energy revolution took off, this array comprised the largest solar power station in Australia.
The pleasant stroll that takes you through the mostly bare hills that lie at the foot of Wilpena Pound. Once at the array, there are commanding views of Mount Ohlssen Bagge to the left and St. Mary Peak to the right.
Wilpena Solar Station Walk Difficulty – easy.
Time and distance – 30 minutes, 1.2 km return.
Elevation gain – 15 m.
Terrain – slightly undulating gravel.
Trailhead – from the Solar Power Station car park. The turn-off is slightly obscured, but look for the car park about 1 km before the visitor centre near the turnoff for Old Wilpena Station.
Facilities – information signage, small shelter.
Points of interest – solar panel array, the western escarpment of Wilpena Pound.
Boom and Bust Hike The Boom and Bust Hike (also known as the Drought Busters Hike ) is a great family-friendly option.
This short, shady, loop trail gives you a taste of the typical bush that surrounds Wilpena Pound and features informative placards about how the plants and animals have adapted to dry (bust) and wet (boom) years.
After rain, you may be able to spot beautiful wildflowers like this clustered everlasting (Chrysocephalum semipapposum). Follow the Hills Homestead Walk for 800 metres and then make a left turn as you cross Wilpena Creek and head uphill. Then it is a matter of following the loop in whichever direction you prefer.
The walk’s proximity to the resort makes it an ideal early morning or late afternoon activity when animals are at their most active and UV is at its weakest.
While some may tell you the Boom and Bust Walk is best hiked in spring, it really depends on whether there’s been rain over winter.
The hike is superb at any time of year in any conditions, and it is definitely not the only place you can see wildflowers in the Flinders Ranges.
Boom and Bust Hike Difficulty – easy.
Time and distance – 2 hours, 3.0 km return.
Elevation gain – 54 m.
Terrain – mostly flat and even with mild undulations. There is a short uphill section if you choose to walk the loop in a clockwise direction.
Trailhead – Wilpena Pound Resort (behind the IGA).
Facilities – none.
Points of interest – natural vegetation characteristic of the area with interpretive signs that have sadly seen better days.
Living with Land Walk The Living with Land Walk is a beautiful loop walk that circles around Old Wilpena Station and tours its historic buildings.
You can walk this trail by yourself or opt to have a local Adnyamathanha guide show you around. In either case, you’ll learn about the European and Aboriginal history of the area.
You’ll also be able to look inside some of the most well-preserved station buildings in South Australia.
I’m not that into the pastoral history of SA, but I did find this walk very interesting. Nevertheless, it’s a great place to spend an afternoon since plenty of natural beauty also abounds.
To best experience the Living with Land Walk, grab a brochure that explains numbered locations of interest such as Wilpena Cemetery, Blacksmith’s Cottage, Bookkeeper’s Hut and Motor House, and Wilpena Homestead.
Tip: some websites will tell you a fee applies for the self-guided walk, but this is no longer true. There’s also a shorter 1-kilometre loop if you don’t feel like walking too far.
Living with Land Walk Difficulty – easy.
Time and distance – 2 hours, 3.2 km.
Elevation gain – 15 m.
Terrain – flat, wide paths.
Trailhead – at Old Wilpena Station. Turn right about 1 kilometre before you hit the visitor centre and follow the signs to the car park.
Facilities – benches, toilets, some disabled access. If you’d like to book a cultural tour of Old Wilpena Station, check out the details here .
Points of interest – Old Wilpena Station, Wilpena Creek, Ikara meeting place.
Arkaroo Rock Hike Arkaroo Rock is a favourite of many and one of the best Flinders Ranges hikes for scenery, culture, accessibility, and facilities.
The trail – which is predominantly a loop but with a small up-and-back section – can be accessed off the main Hawker to Wilpena road.
The trailhead has undergone some renovations recently, and more renovations are planned for a new art viewing area on the trail itself.
Known as Akurra Adnya in the local Aboriginal language, Arkaroo Rock is a large boulder with a cave-lake overhang where various charcoal and ochre images have been painted.
The images depict the creation story of Ikara (Wilpena Pound) and are well preserved considering they are believed to be around 5,000 years old.
As you ascend to Arkaroo Rock you’re greeted with superb views of the escarpment high above. The journey and the destination The journey to get to Arkaroo Rock itself is just as rewarding in my opinion.
From the car park trailhead, there is a small but noticeable ascent as you follow a creek that usually has water in it (even many days after rain).
After about 500 metres the trail levels out and you’ll start to see views of the surrounding mountain ranges. At this point, the loop section begins, but this is not immediately obvious and I sometimes still get confused when I hike this trail.
When you see a trail going off to the right with a park bench, continue straight up the hill. The trail with the bench is the trail you will return on once you’ve completed the loop.
Thereafter the route is a little difficult to follow in parts as it ascents a series of flat, rocky outcrops that also afford tremendous views. Look for the almost faded-away arrows and continue upwards and you should be fine.
Eventually, you’ll enter a more forested area with some native plant species that are uncommon in the Flinders Ranges.
After rain especially, look for Grevillea aspera , Hibbertia scandens , Dichopogon fimbriatus (chocolate lily) and Ptilotus species.
Arkaroo Rock art The art itself is about halfway around the loop, give or take. It’s protected by a rather crude-looking cage, and while this has protected it from vandals, it will be interesting to see if better access is part of the planned refurbishment.
There are also no interpretive signs at the site, so you’ll either need to study up on the symbolism beforehand or leave it to the imagination. This is something else that needs to be addressed.
But I digress.
The area has plenty of bench seating which makes it a great place to rest and listen to the sounds of nature.
You’re right up against the Pound itself at this point, and it would be hard to imagine ascending much further without some serious rock climbing.
Continue on when you’re suitably refreshed and ready lose the elevation you gained. There are a couple of cool, shady, tree-lined gorges to admire on the way down as well as more of those aforementioned views.
Tip: visit in the late afternoon for your best chances of spotting wildlife. You’ll also enjoy the shade higher up as the sun dips behind Wilpena Pound.
Arkaroo Rock Hike Difficulty – moderate.
Time and distance – 2 hours, 3 kilometres return (not including the time spent admiring the art or the terrific views).
Elevation gain – 111 m.
Terrain – mostly flat, dirt trails with uphill and/or stony sections.
Trailhead – look for the well-sign-posted turnoff 17 kilometres south of Wilpena on the Hawker to Wilpena road. From the bitumen, there is a dirt access road of about 2 kilometres that is fine for 2WD vehicles if you take it easy.
Facilities – picnic tables, bridges, toilets, bench seating, informational signage.
Points of interest – Arkaroo Rock, Aboriginal rock art, Chace Range, Wilpena Pound escarpment, native vegetation.
Bridle Gap Hike The Bridle Gap Hike incorporates a small section of the Heysen Trail with walkers crossing the interior of Wilpena Pound. Bird and plant lovers enjoy this trail for the diverse species and communities that can be observed.
The out-and-back trail heads more or less southeast across the Pound floor after Hills Homestead. It is flat for the first 8 kilometres or so, but once you near the south-eastern escarpment, there is a short 100-metre ascent to the eponymous Bridle Gap.
Like the trek to Malloga Falls, Bridle Gap involves a reasonable walk through low open woodland to the pay-off at the end.
However, the reward at Bridle Gap is not a waterfall but a superb lookout with 270-degree views of the Bunbinyunna Range, Elder Range, and Red Range, among other natural features.
As the name suggests, Bridle Gap is also a natural (albeit small) entrance to the Pound. The story goes that it was so named as it was one of the few places a skilled horseman could ride into Wilpena Pound.
Bridle Gap via Black Gap If you’d prefer easier access to Bridle Gap, drive to Black Gap (off the Moralana Scenic Drive) and hike the three kilometres to the lookout.
The 6.0 km return trip shouldn’t take more than a couple of hours, and you can kill two birds with one stone if you plan to take the Moralana drive anyway.
This is a pleasant walk that similarly takes you through various vegetation communities. You can also observe some of the numerous strata layers that make up the Flinders Ranges.
Bridle Gap Hike Difficulty – moderate/hard.
Time and distance – 6 hours, 18.6 km return.
Elevation gain – 155 m.
Terrain – before Hills Homestead, you will navigate a small creek crossing and some minor uphill and downhill sections, but the trail is flat and mostly dirt. After the homestead, the trail is flat with loose rocks until the short, steep ascent to Bridle Gap.
Trailhead – Wilpena Pound Resort (behind the IGA)
Facilities – toilets and picnic tables (at Hills Homestead).
Points of interest – Bunbinyunna Range, Elder Range, Red Range, Wilpena Pound (eastern escarpment).
Final thoughts There are more than enough Wilpena Pound walks to last several visits, but you’ll probably want to hike some of them multiple times anyway.
Except for the Arkaroo Rock Hike, Living with Land Walk and Wilpena Solar Station Walk, all walks start at the trailhead behind the visitor centre.
If you choose to stay at Wilpena, you will appreciate this convenience after stumbling back to civilisation with weary legs.
The Hills Homestead Walk is the most popular in Flinders Ranges National Park and it thus can be busy. But don’t let this put you off. There are times when you can experience fewer crowds and soak in the tranquillity.
For more of a workout, Arkaroo Rock should be near the top of your list. Mount Ohlssen Bagge is a good option for those who have been scarred by a previous experience on St. Mary Peak.
The much longer Malloga Falls and Bridle Gap trails are a different beast entirely. They offer a unique experience in the Pound interior where one seldom encounters other hikers (but plenty of wildlife),
Any questions? Do let me know in the comments
