Wilpena Pound Resort or Rawnsley Park? This is a conundrum that has bothered many travellers over the years.
In fairness, each option is evenly matched in terms of places to stay near Wilpena Pound. Both offer a diverse mix of accommodation types, tours and experiences. Both are also close to the Pound and serve decent meals in their respective restaurants.
There are some differences, however, and some of them may be significant enough to influence your decision one way or the other.
What follows is a comparison between two titans of the Central Flinders Ranges accommodation scene.
I hope you’ll find it useful, and, as always, contact me here if you have any questions.
Value for money
Let’s start with the all-important value for money aspect. Here there are four primary criteria: comfort, amenities, location, and price.
Comfort
Both Wilpena Pound Resort and Rawnsley provide cosy and comfortable accommodation.
However, it is worth pointing out that despite its name, Wilpena Pound Resort does not offer resort standard accommodation.
What it does offer are 60 motel-style rooms with various floor plans. While many of these were renovated recently and are quite nice, they are on the smaller side and only the top-end Edeowie Room offers a basic kitchenette.
Rawnsley’s one and two-bedroom luxury eco-villas, on the other hand, far exceed anything Wilpena has to offer.
These are spacious and fully self-contained with functional kitchens. In other words, not the sort of kitchen where you’ll be searching in vain for a corkscrew.
Rawnsley’s Superior Holiday Units are also a cut above Wilpena’s Edeowie resort-style rooms. Some units offer two separate bedrooms as opposed to Wilpena where both “bedrooms” are in the same space and only separated by a divider.
Wilpena or Rawnsley for camping?
If we compare the campgrounds at each location, Wilpena Pound Resort’s large and shady campground offers plenty of space. You can also enjoy a lot of privacy on a site up the back if you are prepared to walk 5-10 minutes to the amenities block each day.
Rawnsley has a nice campground also, but it is more open and some sites are rocky and not level. Here you have a choice of caravan park-style camping or bush camping.
Winner: Rawnsley Park (just).
Amenities
Wilpena Pound Resort’s amenities are a little hit-and-miss.
The large campground has several amenities blocks which are quite clean. But they can become dirty after a dust storm or if the kangaroos have managed to sneak in and help themselves to the toilet paper.
Thankfully these incursions are less likely if there’s been recent rain.
Hot water can also be unpredictable. Temperatures range from searing hot to tepid and it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly why.
Pressure is good but will reduce if every shower stall is occupied. Shower after 8.30 am or so but before the cleaners arrive mid-morning.
Some of the non-adjustable shower heads are also extremely awkward because one has squat to get under the stream. Definitely a case of try before you buy, as it were!
Also, remember that the water you’ll be showering in (or indeed washing your clothes in) is sourced from a bore.
At Rawnsley, the hot water in the amenities blocks is more reliable and there are also facilities for the disabled. There is also hot water to wash dishes which is sorely lacking at Wilpena.
One other point to note about Rawnsley is that the amenities blocks are fully enclosed. At a couple of the blocks in Wilpena, the walls do not extend all the way to the roof.
In winter, this lets in cold air and in the summer dust. It won’t bother a lot of people, but something to keep in mind.
Winner: Rawnsley Park.
Location
At Wilpena Pound Resort, you’ll be surrounded by beautiful red quartzite mountains, native Callitris pines, sheoaks, red river gums and various other eucalypt species.
Note that the resort is the only such accommodation inside the national park, so you’ll be immersed in nature and all its glory. All things considered, the resort has done a good job of integrating the natural and built environments.
The resort is also situated near the main trailhead for most Flinders Ranges walks that range from short, child-friendly loops to more substantial day and multi-day hikes.
The proximity to the trailhead for numerous Wilpena Pound Walks is clearly an advantage for avid hikers. Personally, I prefer to camp at Wilpena and make the short 5-minute walk to the trailhead.
In fact, some sections of Wilpena Pound Resort back onto the St. Mary Peak outside trail which makes it a super convenient place to camp.
Wilpena’s shuttle bus into the Pound
The resort also offers a shuttle service to cut about 4 kilometres (round-trip) from the Hills Homestead walk. This used to run frequently in the old days and is perfect for those who are less able or pressed for time.
Sadly, however, the shuttle has been hampered by a chronic shortage of drivers for a while now. Enquire at the visitor centre before you set off lest you spend hours waiting for a ride that never comes.
If you do manage to book it, the round trip costs $5.
Rawnsley Park’s location
Rawnsley Park is further from the Pound (but still very close) and is more open and elevated. There are fewer trees at Rawnsley – perhaps because of its history as a sheep station and also because it lies outside the national park.
There is still a great outback experience to be had at Rawnsley and the views are superb owing to the lack of canopy cover and its elevated position.
More on views in the next section!
Rawnsley is nearer the popular Flinders Ranges attractions of Arkaroo Rock and Pugilist Hill Lookout, but it’s not as centrally located as Wilpena Pound.
Compared to Wilpena, Rawnsley is 20 to 30 minutes further from most Flinders Ranges Attractions. Clearly this will not bother everyone.
Winner: Wilpena Pound Resort. Primarily for proximity to the trailhead of several Flinders Ranges walks and authentic nature/national park experience.
Price
It is a little hard to compare prices directly since both Wilpena and Rawnsley offer different types of accommodation. Also, know that prices will be higher than their city equivalents because of the remote location.
Nevertheless, Rawnsley is probably better value for money than Wilpena Pound Resort. Rawnsley’s newer cabins, eco-villas, and homestead are expensive. But there is still value to be had in their older cabins which are comfortable and spacious.
Wilpena’s Ikara Safari Tents are expensive and poorly reviewed. They’re also over $300 per night twin share if you want to add breakfast.
The resort’s motel-style rooms are also expensive with reviews mixed at best. The cheapest “Aroona” rooms are available for $227 per night twin share. Enquire about rooms that have been recently renovated.
In terms of campsite prices, Rawnsley offers powered sites for $43 per night and unpowered sites for $30 per night. Both rates are for 2 people.
Wilpena is cheaper, with twin-share powered sites for $30 per night and unpowered sites for just $19 per night. However, the campground is likely the only place you’ll see value for money at Wilpena.
Winner: Rawnsley Park.
Views
Both Wilpena and Rawnsley offer stunning views of opposite sides of Wilpena Pound.
The differences between the two locations lie in how hard you’ll have to work to earn those views.
At Wilpena, the tree cover means there are only fleeting glimpses of Mount Ohlssen Bagge and the adjacent peaks of Wilpena Pound.
But unobstructed views can easily be had on the access road into the resort as well as from Wangarra Lookout, Cazneaux Tree, Old Wilpena Station and also the hill behind the campground.
More info on things to do in and around Wilpena Pound here.
Of course, views are not simply limited to mountains. Those who appreciate beautiful, shady, tree-lined creeks (and the wildlife it attracts) will love Wilpena.
The best views at Rawnsley
At Rawnsley, the best views come from the eco-villas perched on a chain on small hills. There are fantastic vistas of the western side of Wilpena Pound, but to be honest, they are almost as good from other accommodation types in the park.
As mentioned several times on this site, one can hike to the summit of Rawnsley Bluff for better views of Wilpena Pound and a birds-eye view of the station itself.
For a less strenuous walk, follow the Rawnsley Bluff walk for a bit and veer off onto the Twidale Top Trail at 519 metres above sea level.
For a better look to the south and east, make the easy 0.8 km hike to Kangaroo Gap Lookout where the Pound, Elder Range, and Chace Range stand prominently.
Winner: Comparing apples and oranges, but Rawnsley Park (just).
Experiences
So what else can one experience apart from hikes and taking in the views?
Let’s cut right to the chase with Wilpena Pound Resort:
Welcome to Country
The resort offers a free Welcome to Country in the local Yura Ngawarla language where the significance of the area is told from an Aboriginal perspective.
These are held daily on the lawn near the pool and resort lobby.
Cultural tours
Three tours are available here.
The Our Culture, Your Culture tour of Old Wilpena Station is ideal for history buffs and those with an interest in cultural integration during white settlement.
Cultural tours are also offered of the popular attractions in Sacred Canyon and Arkaroo Rock, and custom/tailored tours are available on request.
4WD tours
Wilpena also offers two other 4WD tours.
The Time Travel & Gorgeous Gorges tour explores the geological history and beauty of Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorge, while the Sunset Spectacular tour sees guests enjoy drinks and canapes as the sun sets over Wilpena Pound.
Scenic flights
WrightsAir offers 20-minute, 30-minute, and 1-hour scenic flights over the central Flinders Ranges and also much further afield to places like Lake Eyre, William Creek and Arkaroola.
Rawnsley Park experiences
Rawnsley Park also offers flights over the same attractions more or less, but they are operated by Chinta Air from the nearby airstrip.
Rawnsley also offers a heli-camping experience where you’re dropped off on top of the Chace Range, spend the night with food and accommodation provided, and are then collected by helicopter in the morning.
There is also the option to catch the heli up to Chace Range and then hike back the 10 kilometres back to Rawnsley with a guide (more on guided tours below).
Other attractions are similar to those offered at Wilpena, but some are packaged differently.
Guided walks
For example, the park offers 3 and 5-day walks led by bushwalking guru and author Kym Tilbrook.
Over the 3-day walk, you’ll hike during the day and spend two nights in your accommodation at Rawnsley and the third in a swag on top of Chace Range. Attractions include WIlpena Pound, Black Gap, and the Wilcolo Loop walk.
The 5-day walk is much the same with the addition of a hike to the summit of Rawnsley Bluff and the popular Blinman Pools. Since walkers will cover 9 to 12 kilometres each day, some level of fitness would be beneficial.
4WD tours
In collaboration with the adjacent Arkapena Station, Rawnsley also offers a self-drive 4WD track that takes around 4.5 hours to complete.
If you’d rather let someone else do the driving, why not opt for one of the following:
- Central Flinders Explorer Tour (8.5 hours).
- Wallabies, Rocks & Copper (8 hours).
- Bunyeroo and Brachina Gorge (4 hours), and
- Sunset on the Chace (2 hours).
Flinders Ranges by Bike
Rawnsley, like Wilpena, is on the Flinders Ranges by Bike (FRBB) trail that enables mountain bike riders to acquaint themselves with the best scenery the Flinders has to offer.
The added benefit of Rawnsley as a station is that you’re also welcome to bike around the property itself (provided you leave gates as you found them).
Bikes can be hired at both locations if needed.
Winner: pretty much a dead heat here.
If you want cultural tours, then Wilpena may be better. If you want a helicopter to drop you off at a campsite at the top of a mountain range, choose Rawnsley.
Facilities
Now let’s take a look at how the two choices compare in terms of facilities such as dining, fuel, groceries, firewood, and camp supplies.
Dining
At Wilpena Pound Resort you can enjoy meals at the attached restaurant which blends modern Australian cuisine with Indigenous bush tucker.
Some of the current menu items include:
- Saltbush dukkah crusted kangaroo fillet with a quandong jus ($38)
- Chargrilled sirloin with native herbs, spices, mash and saltbush hollandaise ($40), and
- Crocodile and prawn laksa with vermicelli noodles, coriander, mint, chilli and bean shoots ($34).
There is also a decent selection of desserts, entrees, and local beers and wines.
Prices are on the high side as you can see – no doubt because of the location and premium ingredients in some dishes.
In any case, the restaurant is located in a beautiful setting. Call ahead to book an outdoor table that overlooks a pleasant lawned area with occasional grazing kangaroos and the biggest gum tree you’ve ever seen.
The Woolshed restaurant
Rawnsley Park also offers an on-site restaurant known as The Woolshed that sources seasonal, sustainable, locally sourced produce (including its own station-raised lamb).
Take away is also available in case you want to enjoy a meal from your accommodation.
Mains are similar to Wilpena Pound and include:
- Saltbush-crumbed kangaroo with sweet potato sticks, spinach, fetta, and bacon ($48)
- Vegan quinoa and lentil salad with chickpea fritters and tahini dressing ($34), and
- Thai chicken curry with cardamom rice ($42).
They also sell gourmet meat packs should you want to fire up the barbie. Each pack contains lamb cutlets, sausages, BBQ steak, potato and green salad, bread rolls, butter, and a salad dressing.
Winner: Wilpena Pound’s restaurant for its outstanding menu, friendly staff, nice atmosphere, and location. I’ve also heard that it accepts walk-ins for breakfast.
Fuel and EV charging
Fuel is available at Rawnsley Park’s caravan park shop and EV charging is also available for $5 per day. There are two charging points near the holiday units.
Wilpena Pound Resort also sells fuel in the IGA and visitor centre complex, but there are no EV charging points at Wilpena just yet.
Groceries
For groceries, Wilpena Pound Resort has an IGA Express where you can stock up on essentials. The IGA is actually pretty decent and is much better than the resort’s old general store which was more about souvenirs and such.
There is usually a small selection of fresh (unfrozen) meat, vegetables, and fruit which I appreciate as well as sandwiches, alcohol, coffee, snacks, and other staples.
The aforementioned caravan park shop at Rawnsley is not a branded grocery store but fresh meat and produce are also available in addition to a selection of frozen food.
Incidentally, the shop has a very good book selection if you’re interested in reading up on the Flinders Ranges.
Winner: Wilpena Pound Resort.
Firewood and camp supplies
Need a campfire for those long winter nights?
Both Wilpena and Rawnsley sell firewood and it is rather expensive (Rawnsley sells it for $24 per bag, for example). But this is the only option since you cannot collect firewood on their property or in the national park at Wilpena.
Left one of your camp chairs at home?
Both locales have you covered also. Wilpena has one half of a whole aisle dedicated to camp supplies and Rawnsley is fairly well stocked too.
Winner: Wilpena Pound Resort.
What do people say about Rawnsley?
Rawnsley enjoys a higher average guest rating than Wilpena across multiple platforms.
Here are some common themes that crop up repeatedly in reviews for Rawnsley:
- Comfortable and well-equipped accommodation.
- Terrific, unrestricted views of Rawnsley Bluff from powered sites.
- Good selection of accessible walks on the station property.
- Spacious and private bush camping sites that offer a more serene and peaceful experience than at Wilpena.
- Delicious meals at The Woolshed restaurant.
- Friendly, knowledgeable staff – from the concierge to scenic flight pilots.
- Clean and functional amenities that includes toilets, showers, communal kitchen, and laundry.
- Dog-friendly with bonus points for the on-site dog minding service.
What do people say about Wilpena Pound?
While Wilpena Pound Resort scores lower on average, it is still a more than respectable place to stay. Just be aware of its limitations.
Here is what travellers love about Wilpena:
- Wildlife encounters – kangaroos, wallabies, possums, quolls, and various species of birds such as apostlebirds, variegated fairy-wrens, Mallee ring-neck parrots, yellow-throated miners and red-capped robins.
- The refreshing pool is in the shade of a large eucalypt and is also close to the bar and restaurant.
- Location, location, location. Close proximity to Wilpena Pound and most of the hikes in Flinders Ranges National Park. The resort is also closer to Blinman and popular attractions like Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorge.
- The well-stocked and reasonably-priced IGA convenience store.
- The numerous Adnyamathanha cultural tours, such as those held at Wilpena Station and Sacred Canyon.
Note that Wilpena Pound’s resort-style rooms and glamping tents are currently under renovation but have attracted criticism for lack of maintenance, cleanliness, poor customer service, and poor value for money.
One can only hope that the renovations do the rooms (and indeed the magnificent location) justice. Until that time, ensure that you’re booking a renovated room or just stay in the campground instead.
Winner: Rawnsley Park Station.
FAQs
Below are some questions you may or may not have.
Which is the best choice for those travelling with pets?
Rawnsley Park Station is the only choice for those with pets.
Pets are not permitted at Wilpena Pound Resort as it is located inside the national park.
Which is the best option for families?
When it comes to family-friendly options, both Wilpena Pound Resort and Rawnsley Park Station have something unique to offer.
Wilpena Pound Resort’s location near most Flinders Ranges walks makes it an ideal choice for families who want to explore the outdoors together.
There are walks to suit every fitness level and attention span, and the shuttle bus (when it runs) may also be attractive to those with young children.
Rawnsley also offers various walks for outdoor families, though admittedly the selection is not as diverse or as impressive as Wilpena’s.
One important aspect of travel for families is price, and this is where Rawnsley excels.
The station’s three-bedroom cabins are ideal for families and reasonably priced. There are also affordable, pet-friendly cabins set in the caravan park that sleep up to 2 adults and 4 kids.
What is the best time of year to visit?
The best time to visit Wilpena Pound Resort and Rawnsley Park Station is between April and November.
Both locations are quite near to each other and offer similar climates. Wilpena’s location in a forested valley makes it colder and smokier in the winter. But in the summertime, the extra shade the trees provide is more than welcome.
Conversely, the more exposed and elevated Rawnsley Park may be a better option in winter for those who need every extra ounce of sunlight to warm up.
For a more detailed look at the best time of year to visit the Flinders, check out this month-by-month summary.
Final thoughts
The winner of this ultimate outback showdown is Rawnsley Park Station, primarily for its comfort, amenities, value for money, and pet-friendliness.
Both options are well suited to kids and families, but Rawnsley definitely has a peaceful outback vibe whereas Wilpena’s is busier and more like a caravan park. This difference in serenity, if you will, has become more pronounced as Wilpena has become more popular.
Both Rawnsley and Wilpena are well matched when you compare their on-site experiences and tours, and I have Wilpena ahead with its well-stocked IGA, terrific restaurant, and proximity to attractions.
Despite Rawnsley emerging victorious, I still stay in Wilpena as a matter of habit more than anything else. Whether one is better than the other is entirely subjective and is based on what aspects you consider important.
Happy travels!
