The Flinders Ranges captures the imagination of adventurers with its vast, rugged landscapes, unique wildlife and rich cultural heritage.
However, it is also a place of extremes and potential dangers, and while you’re unlikely to get into too much trouble, proper preparation and awareness of the risks are essential for a safe and enjoyable journey.
This guide provides an in-depth look at the key safety aspects of the Flinders Ranges.
The only good holiday is a safe and happy holiday, after all.
Planning and Preparation
Time your trip
The best time to visit the Flinders is during the cooler months from May to September. During these months, temperatures are more manageable and the risk of extreme heat is lower.
Travelling during the Australian summer (December to February) can be hazardous due to high temperatures exceeding 40°C (104°F) and increased risks of bushfires and flooding.
You’ll also find that some services, facilities and hiking trails are closed over the hotter months. The heat is brutal most years and is something to take seriously if you intend to visit at this time.
Otherwise, check out this month-by-month breakdown of the best time to visit.
Inform others of your itinerary
Before setting out, make sure you inform a reliable friend or family member of your travel plans. Provide them with detailed information about your route and expected arrival times.
If you intend to hike any of the Wilpena Pound walks, leave your name and details in the logbook near the visitor centre before you set out.
2WD vs. 4WD in the Flinders Ranges
A lot is said about vehicle choice in the Flinders Ranges.
Some maintain you need a 4WD or high-clearance AWD to experience the best parts, but this is mostly not the case.
Here’s why.
When the Wilpena to Blinman road was sealed, it opened up a lot of the central Flinders Ranges to conventional 2WD sedans. Most of the attractions on this road are only a short distance off the tarmac and even then, the dirt is more than manageable.
The only caveat to that is if there has been wet weather. If there has been rain in the last week or two, check road conditions at any of the visitor centres or on the Department for Infrastructure and Transport (DIT) website.
I have taken 2WD sedans through Bunyeroo Gorge, Brachina Gorge, Moralana Scenic Drive, Aroona Valley, etc. You do have to be careful in the creek beds and look out for errant stones. But provided you are careful and drive to the conditions, you should have no problems.
If you want to travel north to Arkaroola from Wilpena, that is a different story.
The road is rough and rocky and just wants to puncture your tyres. And once you’re in Arkaroola itself, most of the drives and attractions in the area require 4WD anyway.
Some may also find the severe corrugations on the road from Brachina Gorge to Parachilna to be unpalatable. Ditto for the Moralana Scenic Drive which traverses private property and can be hit and miss. But you may get lucky if the road has recently been graded.
The long and the short of this is that you can cover most of the big-ticket attractions in the central Flinders with a conventional sedan.
Pack essential supplies
Carry ample water (at least 4 to 5 litres per person per day) plus non-perishable food, a comprehensive first aid kit, a satellite phone and maybe even a personal locator beacon (PLB) if you plan to hike long distances.
Also, pack detailed maps, a GPS device, and a traditional compass for navigation. At least download some maps before you leave the major centres as much of the central and northern Flinders does not have mobile coverage.
On the road
Refuel when you have a chance
Fuel stations are few and far between in the Flinders Ranges.
Always refuel whenever you have the opportunity, even if it means paying a higher price.
Fuel is available at:
– Southern Flinders Ranges – Crystal Brook, Gladstone, Laura, Jamestown, Port Pirie, Wirrabara, Melrose, Wilmington, Orroroo, Carrieton and Booleroo Centre
– Central Flinders Ranges – Port Augusta, Quorn, Hawker, Wilpena, Rawnsley Park and Angorichina Tourist Village
– Northern Flinders Ranges – Leigh Creek, Copley and Arkaroola Village
Drive safely
Driving in the Flinders Ranges requires caution and adaptability. Adjust your speed to the road conditions and use your headlights in dusty or low-visibility conditions to alert oncoming traffic.
Avoid driving during dawn and dusk when wildlife is most active.
In the Flinders, kangaroos are an ever-present obstacle and extreme caution must be taken. After rain when the landscape is green, roos tend to graze in peace and stay away from the road most of the time.
But if it has been dry, they do love to stand on the side of the road and randomly jump in front of cars. Others will run full speed across the road out of nowhere and you won’t see them until it is too late.
Sheep and emu can also be seen on the road at times. But in any case, if you don’t want to drive back to your accommodation at 40 km/h, plan to do most of your driving during the day.
In case of a breakdown
In case of a breakdown, staying with your vehicle is critical. A vehicle is more visible to rescue teams than an individual. Use emergency reflectors and stay in the shade to conserve energy and water.
Your vehicle provides shelter and supplies, making it safer to wait for help rather than attempting to walk to safety.
With all of that said, the Southern and Central Flinders Ranges is sufficiently busy now that you won’t have to wait long to get help from another tourist.
If you do break down, you may be able to obtain mobile coverage by climbing the nearest hill. Not a given, but hey, worth a shot.
Weather and environmental hazards
Monitor weather conditions
As noted earlier, the Flinders is prone to extreme weather such as heatwaves, flash floods and dust storms. It’s also very cold overnight in the winter.
If you’re camping anywhere near Wilpena Pound in the shoulder seasons, you may be subject to a horrendous, freight train-like wind that can easily dismantle your tent and carry your belongings far away.
Always check weather forecasts and road conditions before setting out, especially if you plan to drive through the gorges or camp near a creek bed.
If a road is closed due to weather conditions, please do not attempt to bypass the closure. Stay informed and be prepared to change your plans if necessary.
Encounters with wildlife
The usual advice about approaching or feeding wild animals applies here. Kangaroos are somewhat of a menace in Wilpena Pound campground because they have been fed by people and become habituated.
The same can be said for birds like Australian ravens (which rummage through your rubbish for scraps) and the yellow-throated miner which is known to snatch food from the unsuspecting camper’s hands.
Keep in mind that animals may be especially desperate/aggressive during drought periods.
There are venomous (and non-venomous) snakes in the Flinders as well, so be wary of long grass and where you put your feet in general. Like anywhere, you’re unlikely to see them and even less likely to be bitten if you exercise common sense.
Health, safety and emergencies
Communication in remote areas
Mobile phone coverage is limited in some parts of the Flinders – particularly in the Central and Northern Flinders Ranges and most of the popular attractions in those areas.
Reliable communication tools include UHF CB radios, satellite phones and HF radios. Personal locater beacons (PLBs) can also be used in emergencies, but like all the devices listed here, it is ideal if you know how to use them first.
Bushfire safety
During the fire ban season which runs from October/November to April/May, open flames of any sort are banned. Check dates as the duration of the season may change from year to year.
On Total Fire Ban days declared by the CFS, all fires and most barbecues (including gas and liquid fuel) are not permitted.
Follow local fire bans and be prepared to evacuate if a fire threatens your area. Stay informed about fire conditions through local news and official sources.
Hydration and sun protection
Dehydration is a major risk in the Flinders – even in winter. Drink water regularly and wear protective clothing and sunscreen to minimize sun exposure. Don’t count on there being any drinkable surface water in an emergency.
What’s more, don’t be a hero about the heat.
Please avoid strenuous activities during the hottest part of the day and rest in shaded areas or preferably indoors. BBC TV presenter Michael Mosley’s suspected heat-related death in Greece was a wake-up call to me and I’m sure many others.
To avoid heat-related illness, be active over the cooler parts of the day (early morning and late afternoon). Wear lightweight, light-coloured clothing and a wide-brimmed hat with sunscreen
Fatigue management
Long drives can lead to fatigue which is a common cause of accidents.
Take regular breaks, swap drivers if possible and recognise signs of tiredness such as yawning, lack of concentration and slow reaction times. Plan overnight stops to ensure adequate rest and again, avoid driving at night if you can.
Distances between attractions or towns in the Flinders may be relatively short on paper, but on rough roads, account for more time and do not rush lest you miss the fantastic scenery.
Medical emergencies
Carry a well-stocked first aid kit and know how to use it.
Common items should include bandages, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers and supplies for treating cuts, burns, and bites. Familiarise yourself with basic first aid procedures – especially for heatstroke and snake bites.
If travelling in particularly remote areas, consider taking a remote first aid course. Very useful!
Navigational tips
Maps and GPS
While modern GPS devices are incredibly useful, do not solely rely on them.
Carry detailed physical maps and learn to use a compass. This redundancy ensures you can navigate even if your GPS fails or loses signal. Plan your route carefully and, as touched on earlier, be aware of the distances between fuel stops and other critical points.
There are several good maps of the Flinders Ranges. A decent selection is available at Hawker Motors in Hawker and at the Wilpena Pound visitor centre.
Alternatively, have a look at this map from HEMA or the Flinders Ranges Emergency Services Map Book (expensive, but comprehensive and detailed).
Practical tips
Maintain a clean and safe camp
Maintaining a clean camp is crucial to avoid attracting wildlife and insects. Store food securely and dispose of waste properly. Extinguish your campfires properly (with water) before departure.
Do not camp under trees (particularly river red gums) if you can avoid it. They have been known to drop branches without warning and do untold damage to people and vehicles.
Be self-sufficient
The remote nature of the Central and Northern Flinders Ranges means you must be somewhat self-sufficient. Ensure your vehicle has all necessary tools and spare parts, including spare tyres, a jack and basic repair tools.
While there are RAA services in Hawker and mechanical services in Arkaroola, you may be waiting a while for help. Knowing how to perform minor repairs is convenient, but it could also be a lifesaver one day.
Handling emergencies
In case of an emergency, remain calm and prioritise your actions.
Use your communication devices to call for help, provide accurate information about your location and follow the advice of emergency services.
Stay with your vehicle for the shelter it provides and also because it is easier to spot for rescuers.
To conclude
The Flinders is not as remote or untamed as the Australian outback proper, but the environment nevertheless demands respect and some degree of preparation.
Remember these tips and best practices to maximise your enjoyment of the incredible landscapes on offer. Above all, remember that preparation, vigilance and respect for the area you intend to experience are key to a safe and memorable journey.
