Cazneaux Tree is not only an iconic symbol of the Flinders Ranges but also of the Australian outback.
The tree itself, in my opinion, is no more remarkable than the thousands of other river red gums in Australia. Yes, it stands relatively alone on a flat plain in front of Wilpena Pound. But it’s likely you wouldn’t even notice the tree driving along the nearby main road.
What makes Cazneaux tree special then?
The meaning attributed to the tree by Australian photographer Harold Pierce Cazneaux is what makes the tree well-known.
Cazneaux – the grandfather of Australian explorer Dick Smith – photographed the tree in 1937 and called his work “The Spirit of Endurance” based on traits he felt epitomised the tree’s survival in the semi-arid climate.
In 1941, Cazneaux reflected on what the tree meant to him as his most “Australian” photograph:
“This giant gum tree stands in solitary grandeur on a lonely plateau in the arid Flinders Ranges, South Australia, grown up from a sapling through the years, and long before the shade from its giant limbs ever gave shelter from heat to white men. The passing of the years has left it scarred and marked by the elements – storm, fire, water – unconquered, it speaks to us from a Spirit of Endurance.
Although aged, its widespread limbs speak of a vitality that will carry on for many more years. One day, when the sun shone hot and strong, I stood before this giant in silent wonder and admiration. The hot wind stirred its leafy boughs, and some of the living elements of this tree passed to me in understanding and friendliness expressing The Spirit of Australia.”
Dick Smith was heavily influenced by his grandfather.
In a 2009 interview with the Art Gallery of NSW, he credited Cazneaux with his love of radio and electronics. He also grew up surrounded by Cazneaux’s photographs and credits this for influencing his love of Australia.
How old is the Cazneaux tree?
No one knows how long Cazneaux tree has been standing stoically on that desolate plain, but river red gums can live for many centuries and potentially up to 1000 years.
I think it’s good not to know how old the tree is because it simply adds to the mystery and romanticism of its legend.
In any case, Cazneaux tree is listed as significant by the National Trust with a diameter of 11.4 metres at the base and a height of 30 metres. Impressive, to say the least.
The tree looks a little more geriatric today than it did in 1937. Many of the upper limbs are now devoid of leaves, with new growth on the trunk instead.
One thing that hasn’t changed much (and which always impresses me) is how perilously the roots seem to cling to the eroded creek bank on which the tree sits.
Floods ravaged this creek over the Australia Day long weekend in 2021. Although they had the power to wash away the bridge leading to the information board, they did not have the power to uproot the tree. Remarkable!
When is the best time to photograph Cazneaux Tree?
You will often find photographers at Cazneaux Tree looking to take home a picture postcard shot of the Flinders Ranges.
The best time to photograph the tree is probably early morning as the sun peaks over the ABC Range behind you.
Golden hour in the evening is less ideal because the sun will set right behind the tree (particularly in summer) and make proper exposure more difficult.
There is nothing stopping you from taking a photograph facing east, of course. But know that the background will be more cluttered with hills and large trees that line Wilpena Creek.
Are there any facilities?
While the short trail to Cazneaux Tree has been repaired after the floods, there are currently no facilities in the area.
There are also the beginnings of what looks to be an interpretive or cultural walk in the area that crosses Wilpena Creek and doubles back. If anyone knows what is planned for this walk, drop me a comment below.
On my most recent visit in mid-2024, I also noticed a new sign on the right hand side as you drive in. The sign features a glass panel with an image of the original homestead, which presumably is superimposed over the area in which it once stood.
How to access Cazneaux Tree
If coming from Wilpena, take the main road out of the resort and then turn left at the T-junction. Carry on for 600 metres or so and then make a left, and mind the potholes on the dirt access road to the carpark (this road is also muddy and slippery after rain, so take care).
Once there, it’s a very short stroll of a few hundred metres to the information board and viewpoint.
If you’re coming from Blinman, the turn-off can be easy to miss. After you cross Wilpena Creek, you’ll need to make a right turn at the top of the hill to access the entry road.
