Nestled in the north-western corner of Flinders Ranges National Park is the spectacular Brachina Gorge.
Brachina stands as a testament to the Earth’s ancient history.
As you cut a path through this striking natural feature, you’ll follow a dry riverbed flanked by enormous cliffs that, without a word of a lie, change colour around nearly every turn.
More impressive is the ability to travel through time, and we’re not talking 1985 either.
Brachina Gorge is one of the most complete records of sedimentary deposition in the world for its time period. Travelling from east to west, the rocks being progressively younger.
On the Brachina Gorge Geological Trail, you pass rocks ranging from 650 million years to 520 million years old in just 20 kilometres. Collectively, these strata (layers) feel like the essence of the Flinders Ranges themselves.
This will not just be a visual spectacle but an educational experience where you learn about the geologic history of the region.
Even if rocks are not your thing, one can’t help but appreciate the immense amount of time it took to shape something that can now be traversed in a few hours.
Brachina Gorge is a Flinders Ranges bucket list item that is up there with Wilpena Pound, Razorback Lookout and the Prairie Hotel.
Where is Brachina Gorge?
Brachina Gorge is located near the western boundary of Flinders Ranges National Park.
There are several ways to get there and which route you take depends on what you want to see.
Brachina Gorge via Bunyeroo Gorge and Razorback Lookout
From Wilpena, head east on the access road and turn left at the T-junction to follow signs for Blinman. After 5 kilometres, make a left at the Bunyeroo Valley Scenic Drive turnoff.
Continue on the mostly dirt road for around 16 kilometres or so before you arrive at the famous Razorback Lookout.
The road can be rough in places, and the degree of bone-shaking very much depends on whether there was recent rain and how long it has been since the road was graded.
In any case, the road is perfectly fine for 2WD vehicles on the proviso that extra care is exercised in creek crossings.
After taking your happy snaps at the lookout, continue down into Bunyeroo Gorge and then for around 13 kilometres before you emerge on the other side. Read more about Bunyeroo Gorge here.
Entering Brachina Gorge
When you reach the T-junction with the Brachina Gorge Geological Trail, turn left to follow Brachina Creek as it cuts through the Heysen Range.
From there it is around 9 kilometres to the other side of the Gorge where the jagged peaks and colourful cliffs abruptly transform into flat and desolate western plains.
At this point, you have two options.
The first is to continue on the dirt until you reach the sealed Hawker to Parachilna Road (B83). You could turn right, head up to the Prairie Hotel for lunch, and return to Wilpena via the Brachina Gorge Geological Trail in the late afternoon.
The second option is to turn left onto the bitumen, head south for 26 kilometres, and return to Wilpena via the Moralana Scenic Drive.
In theory, you could do both options in one long day, but I would probably budget for two days. Especially in winter.
What can you see in Brachina Gorge?
Aside from the Brachina Gorge Geological Trail (described in detail below), keep an eye out for the abundant wildlife that calls this part of the Flinders home.
The yellow-footed rock wallaby, for example, can often be spotted skilfully navigating the rocky terrain above. In fact, Brachina Gorge is probably the best spot in the Flinders Ranges to see this colourful macropod.
If you have a keen eye, you can also spot the odd cave high up on the cliff face (particularly toward the western end of the gorge).
You may also be able to enjoy numerous waterholes – though this will depend on recent rain to some extent. The waterholes in Brachina are not what they used unfortunately, with one semi-permanent one graded over many years back.
Regardless, Brachina Gorge is a place for quiet reflection about how insignificant we are compared to the immense forces that shaped this part of the Flinders Ranges.
Can you hike in Brachina?
Brachina Gorge is often promoted as a drive-through attraction, though this is a shame because the real value lies in stopping and exploring whenever you feel like it.
Granted, there are no designated hiking trails in Brachina . But as you’ll learn in the next section, there are plenty of short walks to points of interest on the geological trail.
And remember that you’re in a national park. Go and explore till your heart is content!
Brachina Gorge Geological Trail
The Brachina Gorge Geological Trail (BGGT) is a 20-kilometre, self-guided journey with plenty of places to pull over and take photos.
And you’ll definitely want to pull over and take photos.
The trail follows the twists and turns of Brachina Gorge and crosses the creek of the same name several times.
Signs along the trail tell you the succession of rock layers as well as information on past climates, how the Flinders Ranges were formed and the evolution of early life.
Where does the BGGT start? Note that the trail actually starts at the turn-off some 37 kilometres north of Wilpena on the bitumen Blinman road.
Once you hit the dirt, it’s another 12 kilometres of driving before you enter Brachina Gorge itself.
Keep this in mind if you intend to visit Bunyeroo Gorge first because the T-junction comes out halfway along the trail. In other words, if you want to drive the trail in its entirety, some back-tracking will be involved.
Here is a brief look at each of the rock layers and respective points of interest.
Enorama Shale
Grey, green, and fine-grained Enorama Shale was deposited in a deep, ancient seabed between 650 and 645 ma (million years ago).
Trezona Formation
The Trezona Formation comprises both siltstone and reddish limestone. These form the distinctive banded hill slopes that are visible on the road just south of Blinman (and from the Bunyeroo Valley Scenic Drive).
Limestone in the Trezona Formation also contains fossils of stromatolites – a primitive marine cyanobacteria. Look for humps that feature internal hemispheric layering.
Tip To see stromatolites, take the turn-off for Youngoona Ruins and then follow the Trezona Hike west for 700 metres next to Enorama Creek.
Just before the creek veers hard left you will see a Geo-site post that marks the location of the stromatolites.
There are also stromatolites in a rocky outcrop 25 metres north of the sign about the Trezona Formation. Just follow the arrow.
Trezona Campground and Golden Spike
Shortly thereafter is the turnoff for Trezona Campground.
Here, you can read more about the Ediacaran fossils which are the earliest evidence of intelligent life anywhere in the world.
From the campground, walk 500 metres toward Youngoona along Enorama Creek to the Golden Spike. The Golden Spike is a brass plaque that marks the start of the Ediacaran Period and the point at which multi-celled organisms became common.
The site of the Golden Spike has been upgraded with seating, elegant stonework, new signage and some rather deep steps down to the creek.
Back at the campground, there are also toilets and picnic tables if you’d like to linger for a bit.
The turn-off for the Golden Spike on the Brachina Gorge Geological Trail. Elatina Formation
At the Elatina Formation sign, you can take a very short walk to a place at Etina Creek where the rock is visible (outcrops).
The Elatina Formation was laid down at a time when glaciers and ice were prevalent. It contains sandstone and siltstone as well as pebbles and boulders picked up (and then deposited) by moving glaciers.
If I’m honest, this stop is probably not worth your time. But if you’re a geology nerd, by all means have a look!
Nuccaleena Formation
Blink and you’ll miss it!
The dolomite Nuccaleena Formation is just a few metres wide and only outcrops in certain places. It formed once temperatures (and sea levels) rose after the Elatina Formation was laid down.
This formation is estimated to be 635 million years old.
Brachina Formation
The Brachina Formation can be viewed in a sequence from the Pleistocene era on the banks of Enorama Creek. It is located near the so-called Slippery Dip – a steep section of road that exits the cutting which can become slippery after rain.
The formation consists of grey-green siltstone, sandstone, shale and the maroon-coloured siltstone that, to me, is emblematic of the Flinders Ranges. You’ll know it when you see it, as it tends to break into sharp, angular pieces.
Pleistocene Wetland Terrace
Once you make it to the top of Slippery Dip, you’ll cross a vast, flat area unlike the jagged and serrated landforms typical of the Flinders Ranges.
The terrace consists of unconsolidated (not rock) sediments such as silt, clay, and silty sand where numerous fossils have been found. These include snails, ostracods (shrimp-like creatures) and the eggshell fragments of a now-extinct, emu-like bird called Genyornis .
This area was likely a permanent wetland or marsh during the Pleistocene where fine sediments were deposited in a very low-energy and/or brackish environment.
Sediments were deposited as recently as 18,000 years ago.
It feels strange to hike through this area. This type of landform in the Flinders is rare, but it’s also interesting because the predominant shrub is a species of Maireana you don’t often find dominating an area.
ABC Range Quartzite
The ABC Range Quartzite – as you may have surmised – is a 70-metre thick quartzite that comprises the ridges of the ABC Range. The cemented sand is resistant to erosion and forms the peaks of many other ranges in the Flinders.
This part of Brachina Gorge is estimated to be at least 620 million years old as part of a large delta influenced by tidal currents.
Aroona Valley turnoff
If you’d like to visit the Aroona Valley, turn right at the T-junction and beware of the creek soon after which usually has water in it.
Do not drive off the concrete edge on the left hand side!
The Aroona Valley road terminates after 12 kilometres of pleasant driving between the Heysen and ABC Ranges. Again, take your time as there are a lot of creek crossings and dips that need careful navigation.
At the end of the road are the Koolamon Campground, Aroona Ruins and Aroona Hut – a pug-and-pine structure built by pioneer Eddie Pumpa. The Yuluna Loop Hike and Heysen Trail also pass through the area.
This is a great little side excursion on the Brachina Gorge Geological Trial and shouldn’t add more than an hour or two to your itinerary.
Bunyeroo Formation
At the Aroona Valley Lookout is the information sign for the Bunyeroo Formation, one of the more interesting that you’ll come across.
The formation consists of shale and siltstone, with the latter softer and eroding to form the Aroona Valley. The more interesting aspect is the thin (no more than 30 mm) layer of volcanic rock debris from the Gawler Range Volcanic Province some 300 kilometres to the west.
So how did it end up there?
Around 600 million years back, a meteorite impact impacted the Eyre Peninsula and sent rock into the atmosphere in all directions. The rock eventually fell back to Earth and was deposited as the aforementioned layer.
The asteroid was estimated to be around 4 kilometres wide, creating a crater 30 kilometres wide and several kilometres deep.
And incredibly, the 30-millimetre layer of rock is around 1000 million (1 billion) years older than the other formations you’ll see on the Brachina Gorge Geological Trail.
Wonoka Formation
The Wonoka Formation consists of calcium-rich siltstone and limestone, with some of the formation deposited on the slopes of submarine canyons.
This formation is grey to light brown or white, and it is rather distinctive because it does not support the growth of large shrubs and trees. It is believed to be 570-590 million years old.
Bonney Sandstone
The Bonney Sandstone is a red sandstone or siltstone with an age of around 560 million years.
The rock is a rusty red colour and as such, was probably deposited in a shallow, oxidising environment such as a delta or estuary.
Along with Rawnsley Quartzite, Bonney Sandstone is most recognizable on the lower, outer cliffs of Wilpena Pound.
Look for yellow-footed rock wallabies above the scree slope.
Rawnsley Quartzite
Without the erosion-resistant Rawnsley Quartzite, there would be no Wilpena Pound, Heysen Range or Elder Range. Well, there would be I suppose. But these ranges would not be as prominent or jagged.
The Rawnsley Quartzite is 400 metres thick and, though almost pure white quartz, weathers to an orangey colour when exposed to the air.
It was deposited in a shallow, low-energy sea around 550-560 million years ago and contains the internationally significant Ediacaran fossils.
Parachilna Formation
At the Parachilna Formation, you will reach the end of the Ediacaran Period and the start of the Cambrian Period.
As noted earlier, this transition marks the point at which multi-cellular organisms – the ancestors of most animals today – started to become widespread.
The explosion in multi-cellular life saw small, shelly animals appear in the fossil record for the first time. These were followed by trilobites and sponge/coral-like archaeocyathids.
Look for the remains of worm burrows about 20 metres south of the path. Of course, the worms themselves were not preserved because they are soft-bodied animals.
The Cambrian Period was also the point at which sedimentary locks were deposited as part of the Adelaide Superbasin (formerly the Adelaide Geosyncline).
This basin now contains the 850-kilometre-long ranges that extend from the Flinders to the Mount Lofty Ranges, Fleurieu Peninsula and Kangaroo Island in the south.
Wilkawillina Limestone
This is a limestone of various shades of grey that contains many of the aforementioned archaecyatha fossils.
To see the fossils, look for the large boulder of polished limestone about 100 metres west of the sign. Pour water on the boulder to see the fossils in more detail.
Billy Creek Formation
The Billy Creek Formation is not described by interpretive signage – though one of the older, green park signs does announce its presence.
The soft, red siltstone that makes up the formation is poorly exposed on the southern side of Brachina Gorge.
Because of the presence of salt casts and desiccation cracks, it is thought the Billy Creek Formation was deposited in a hypersaline lagoon environment with high evaporation.
Wirrealpa Limestone
The last stop (or first stop if entering from the west) on the Brachina Gorge Geological Trail is the Wirrealpa Limestone.
There’s also an information shelter here for the trail itself and a decent lookout that takes in views of the salt plains to the east and slopes and valleys of the Heysen Range.
Fossils of trilobites, stromatolites and brachiopods can be seen in the creek below the car park, but there is no official path and the route down can be steep and treacherous.
Can you visit while the trail is under redevelopment?
As glorious as the natural scenery is in Brachina Gorge, signage on the trail is showing its age.
But I’m pleased to report that the trail is under redevelopment in 2024.
Ostensibly this is part of an application for UNESCO World Heritage status. However, I’d like to think that the government is upgrading the trail because Brachina Gorge is one of the cornerstone attractions of the Flinders Ranges.
Better access to the Golden Spike (mentioned above) was completed in 2022, and there are also efforts to improve traffic flow and safety.
So can you still visit? The short answer is yes – but check here before you visit to make sure.
Can you camp in Brachina Gorge? You sure can!
In truth, there are six different campgrounds near Brachina Gorge , but only two are located in the gorge itself.
Let’s take a brief look at them below, keeping in mind this more detailed post about Ikara-Flinders Ranges National park campgrounds.
Brachina East Campground
On the eastern side of Brachina Gorge is Brachina East Campground, with half accessible to 2WD and half to 4WD. This is a beautiful area with towering eucalypts, small cliffs and mostly flat sites that are not too rocky.
Here there are toilets, fire pits, and a water tank. But check when you book as some of the sites are quite a distance from facilities.
Teamsters Campground
On the western side of Brachina Gorge is the popular Teamsters Campground. You’ll need to book early here as there are only 6 campsites in total for high-clearance 2WD and 4WD.
Fossils can be seen in the nearby Wilkawillina Limestone, and for real geological enthusiasts, the unmarked Woodendinna Dolomite can be seen on the exposed upper southern slopes near the campground.
Trezona Campground
As we established earlier, the Trezona Campground is the nearest to the Golden Spike and the Trezona Hike. While Trezona is located on the Brachina Gorge Road, it is not in the gorge itself.
But I’m including it here since it is a worthy alternative if Brachina East is full.
At Trezona, there are 15 campsites available with many able to accommodate up to three vehicles or 21 persons.
Toilets, fire pits, picnic areas, and some rock seating are available.
Koolamon, Cambrian, and Youngoona Campground are also a short drive away.
Do you need a 4WD to visit Brachina Gorge?
As with many things in life, it depends.
If the weather has been dry, then the Gorge is navigable in a 2WD provided you are ultra careful when crossing Brachina Creek.
Note that the road crosses the creek many times, and in some places, the road is the creek.
There is usually some water to cross (particularly near the Aroona Valley turnoff), but the dry creek beds should always be treated with respect. Look for sharp stones, loose stones and some with the potential to put an enormous hole in your sump.
If you intend to drive to Parachilna for lunch, know also that the section between the bitumen highway and the park entrance is often heavily corrugated.
If there has been recent rain or flooding, then a 4WD or high-clearance AWD vehicle is probably best to deal with washouts.
There are also a couple of steep exits from creek beds where extra traction may be required in the wet. For example, the aforementioned Slippery Dip.
In any case, keep an eye on the weather before you plan to visit and check Brachina Gorge road conditions here.
What are the origins of the name Brachina?
The name Brachina is thought to be a derivative of the Aboriginal term vachina .
In this context, vachina means cranky because it references a mythological argument between several birds over a grindstone
Emergency contact information
When visiting Brachina Gorge it can be handy to have local emergency contact information at hand. People can (and do) break down for various reasons.
For breakdowns, emergency vehicle recovery and mechanical repairs, contact Chris’s Mechanical. This business is also the RAA Approved Roadside Contractor for the area.
For general tyre services and puncture repairs (and just about everything else), drop into Hawker Motors. There’s also a small museum here and a decent selection of outback books that are hard to find elsewhere.
Hawker Motors (formerly Teague Motors)
Location – Corner of Cradock and Wilpena Roads, Hawker SA 5434Phone – (08) 8648 4014Hours – 8AM to 5PM, 7 days a week.Website – https://hawkermotors.com.au
Final thoughts
Whether you’re a keen hiker, nature enthusiast, rock lover, or simply in search of awe-inspiring landscapes, Brachina Gorge offers a unique opportunity to connect with South Australia’s ancient past.
Words (and photos) never do this place justice, so please visit and experience it for yourself.
Yes, the road is rough in places. But it’s part of an adventure that can easily incorporate other signature attractions in Flinders Ranges.
