Alligator Gorge is the number one tourist attraction in the Southern Flinders Ranges, and it’s not hard to see why.
Visitors who descend the hundred or so steps to Alligator Creek from the day-use area will be wowed by impressive red quartzite cliffs, ferns, mosses, birds, and the sounds of a babbling brook if they’re lucky.
What’s special about Alligator Gorge?
While the dynamic duo of Brachina and Bunyeroo Gorge are probably more famous, neither is as narrow or imposing as Alligator Gorge .
You will notice as you traverse the creek that the cliffs close in and almost touch above your head in some places.
One of these places is the Narrows, a section probably only a metre or so wide that will require wet feet to traverse in the wetter months.
If you’ve ever hiked the Narrows in Zion National Park in Utah, well, it’s like that but with fewer people and much shallower water.
But before we move any further, we should address the elephant (or alligator) in the room.
Alligator Gorge does not have alligators or even crocodiles. Happily, both these creatures are not native to South Australia.
According to one source, the gorge was named after a local Aboriginal shepherd and explorer called Ally who contributed to early knowledge of the area.
What can you do in Alligator Gorge?
Once you descend the steps into the gorge proper, you have a few different choices.
The short and not-so-strenuous look around
Take a breather while you admire the sights and sounds of the natural environment. Then, return up the hill to the carpark.
From there, you can continue on the road for a few minutes to the Blue Gum Flat Picnic Area. This is a nice place to have lunch with large eucalypts for shade, picnic tables, BBQ facilities and toilets.
You may also spot a local here like a western grey kangaroo, emu, or wedge-tailed eagle riding the thermals above. One also tends to see eagles on the Gorge Circuit Hike, but more on that below!
Straight to the Narrows, don’t really care about anything else
Turn left and walk a short distance of a few hundred meters to the Narrows.
As noted earlier, this is the narrowest part of Alligator Gorge and its accessibility will be determined by how much (if any) water is flowing in the creek.
But it’s a great place to stop for a photo at any time of year, don’t get me wrong.
Just be careful on them there rocks!
Want to see a bit of everything
Turn right from the stairs and walk a few hundred metres to the Terraces – a section of Alligator Creek where the water runs over terraced slabs of rock that resemble steps.
This is also a superb place to stop and ponder the meaning of life. Simply turn around at this point to return to the carpark or continue on the Alligator Gorge Ring Route Hike (more on this below if you’re interested).
More information on this hike, which also incorporates the Narrows, is provided in the next section.
Exiting the gorge proper on a fine and sunny day to start the bush section.
Alligator Gorge hikes
Hiking in and around Alligator Gorge is an activity that should not be missed.
But you will need to take extra care in the area because of steep and/or uneven sections, wet rocks, creek crossings and the like.
Let’s take a look at the best walks below.
Alligator Gorge Ring Route Hike
The Alligator Gorge Ring Route Hike starts at the bottom of the steps from the carpark and does a broad loop that incorporates the more elevated country west of Alligator Gorge.
Walking SA advises that you complete the loop in an anti-clockwise direction, but either direction is fine. But you do avoid an uphill section on the fire trail if you choose to walk anti-clockwise.
On that note, some hikers find the 4-kilometre fire trail section a little dull, but the more elevated areas do afford decent views and a sense of what the bush is like in the national park.
You’ll also pass two campsites which can double as rest spots if you’re not staying the night. These are Eaglehawk Dam (625 metres above sea level) and Long Hill (326 metres).
For even better vistas, however, take the spur trail to the Battery for terrific views over Spencer Gulf. If you’re walking anti-clockwise, the trail to the Battery is just after you emerge from Alligator Gorge and reach the Ring Route Track.
Alligator Gorge Ring Route Hike
Difficulty – moderate during low creek flows, hard during high creek flows.
Time and distance – 3.5 hours, 8.7 kilometres (loop)
Elevation gain – 335 m
Terrain – undulating with loose rocks, creek crossings and some steep sections.
Trailhead – Alligator Gorge day use carpark.
Points of interest – Alligator Gorge, the Terraces, the Narrows.
Gorge Circuit Hike
The Gorge Circuit Hike is a much shorter option that also takes in the Narrows and the Terraces. You’ll need around 2 hours or so to complete the total distance of 3.3 kilometres.
The hike starts in the carpark and then veers right at the bottom of the steps toward the Terraces. Once you reach the Terraces, turn around and head in the direction of the Narrows to enjoy that deliciously closed-in gorge.
Continue past the Narrows through bushland before making a large left turn in the general direction of the carpark. Before then you will pass near to Blue Gum Picnic Area (also accessible by vehicle) which is about 700 metres before the end of the hike.
Gorge Circuit Hike
Difficulty – easy during low creek flows, moderate during high creek flows.
Time and distance – 2 hours, 3.3 kilometres (loop)
Terrain – undulating with loose rocks, creek crossings and some steep sections.
Trailhead – Alligator Gorge day use carpark.
Points of interest – Alligator Gorge, the Terraces, the Narrows, Blue Gum Picnic Area.
Ali Lookout Walk and Gorge Lookout Walk
These two options are very short walks to lookouts over Alligator Gorge.
The first, Ali Lookout Walk, is a 400-metre, 15-minute jaunt to a viewing platform that starts near the toilet block.
There are a couple of steps to navigate here, but between the two lookouts, this one has fewer steps and two interpretive signs.
Gorge Lookout Walk, on the other hand, is slightly longer at 600 metres or 20-minutes return. You can see deeper into Alligator Gorge here, but there are more steps to navigate and no information boards.
Mambray Creek to Alligator Gorge Hike
For those who want something a little more adventurous, consider the 13.8-kilometre up-and-back hike between Mambray Creek and Alligator Gorge.
The hike follows the courses of the Mambray and Alligator Creeks and can be combined with other trails in the national park to make a multi-day hike.
But since we’re talking about Alligator Gorge here, we’ll stick with the single up-and-back route.
If you’re considering this hike, know that there are a few different options:
Option A
Start from Mambray Creek Campground and have a car pick you up at Alligator Gorge (or vice versa). Note that hiking in the direction of Alligator Gorge is 99% uphill, while the reverse is 99% downhill.
Option B
Hike both ways in one day and return to where you started (fit hikers only), or
Option C
Do either A or B and stay the night at one of the various campgrounds en route.
You have a choice of Hidden Gorge or Kingfisher Flat, while Long Hill is an option if you want to split the 27.6-kilometre hike into two roughly equal parts.
Mambray Creek to Alligator Gorge Hike
Difficulty – moderate (one-way), hard (out-and-back)
Time and distance – 3.5 hours, 13.8 kilometres (one-way), 7 hours, 27.6 kilometres (out-and-back)
Elevation gain – 584 m (if hiking from Mambray Creek to Alligator Gorge)
Terrain – undulating with loose rocks, creek crossings and some steep sections.
Trailhead – Alligator Gorge or Mambray Creek.
Points of interest – Alligator Gorge, the Terraces, the Narrows, the Battery, Hidden Gorge, Black Range.
The Mambray Creek to Alligator Gorge Hike from the Mambray Creek side. Beautiful!
How do you access Alligator Gorge?
You can find the turnoff for Alligator Gorge about 2 kilometres south of the town of Wilmington. From there, it’s about 13 kilometres to the carpark where there are also toilets and tables.
A few points about the drive in.
The road traverses the beautiful eastern section of Mount Remarkable National Park and is rather steep and narrow in places .
Closer to the carpark there are also frequent spoon drains that need to be navigated, and there is very little opportunity to make a U-turn if you come to an impasse and need to retreat.
For the above reasons, the access road is not suitable for buses, caravans, camper trailers and any other vehicle with a long wheelbase.
When is the best time to visit?
Alligator Gorge is splendid at any time of year, but winter and spring are probably the best times to visit if you want to hear the soothing sound of running water.
A flowing Alligator Creek adds a certain ambience to a traverse of the gorge – provided you can visit on a weekday when crowds are thinner, of course.
There will also be abundant wildflowers on the road in and also on the upper slopes of the gorge itself. Since Alligator Gorge receives fairly reliable winter rainfall, various species of wildflowers and orchids emerge most years in the spring and early summer.
My favourite wildflower is Austral indigo (Indigofera australis) with its pink and violet flowers. It is easily visible on the rocky slopes above the gorge.
Do you need to pay to visit?
Yes, you will need to purchase a vehicle entry day pass for Mount Remarkable National Park.
Do this before you leave Wilmington as phone coverage quickly evaporates the further you travel away from the town.
Otherwise, buy a permit face-to-face from any approved booking agent.
The closest agent to Alligator Gorge is SJ + JA Wild Rural & Hardware. This is the big yellow building on the southern edge of Wilmington off the main road. You can’t miss it.
Alligator Gorge camping
Note that you cannot camp in Alligator Gorge itself or in either of the two day-use areas.
If you’d like to stay in the area, try the Beautiful Valley Caravan Park or Stony Creek Caravan Park (the former in Wilmington, the latter three kilometres east).
If you’d like to stay in Mount Remarkable National Park, there are numerous options.
Mambray Creek Campground
The Mambray Creek Campground has 49 sites and has recently undergone renovations to offer a camp kitchen, two shower and toilet blocks and shelters with picnic furniture. For something more rustic, try the nearby Baroota Campground .
However, do be aware that both these options are a fair way by car from Alligator Gorge. There are only two east-west roads that cross the southern Flinders in this area, and none are terribly direct.
Walk-in campgrounds
Some of the aforementioned campgrounds such as Long Hill and Eaglehawk Dam are also an option if you’re a hiker and can walk in.
Most are very rudimentary with zero facilities and campfires are prohibited all year round. Staying overnight in the national park during the fire ban season is also prohibited.
To book one of these sites, you must ring the National Parks and Wildlife Service (Yorke and Mid North Office) at Clare on (+61 8) 8841 3400. Unlike Mambray Creek and Baroota, these sites cannot be booked online.
It is recommended you book as far in advance as possible since campgrounds are sometimes booked out by tour groups.
Alligator Lodge
Why not consider Alligator Lodge if you’d prefer a roof over your head but don’t want to stay in a campground or caravan park.
This is a three-bedroom, self-contained cabin run by the National Parks and Wildlife Service and can accommodate a maximum of 10 people.
The 50s-style cabin is nestled in pristine blue-gum bush around 10 kilometres south of Wilmington on the main access road to Alligator Gorge. It’s probably as close as you can get to the gorge for this accommodation type.
The price of Alligator Lodge is $201 per night at the time of writing with a minimum 2-night stay. You can check availability here .